In its final two days, World MasterCard Fashion Week showed a diverse range of collections from commercially cool to darkly avant garde.
Montréal label UNTTLD presented a luxe collection of seductive evening wear and edgy separates, including a pocket-detail leather skirt and liquid, shimmering vest. Fantasy met reality with a juxtaposition of tough and ethereal fabrics, and the all-black scheme was perfect for any mysterious vamp’s wardrobe.
Outwear was the focus on Thursday evening, with Soïa & Kyo showing a range of jackets and coats for women and men; designer Ilan Elfassy’s creativity ran the gamut from pastel suede moto jackets to two-tone treatments for peacoats and parkas. The colour palette was a knockout: plum, soft pink, burnt orange and soft brown were refreshing and bold.
Rudsak‘s cosmopolitan fantasy was realized in leather done with interesting details and deft craftsmanship. Bits of fur reminded us that warmth is key when choosing a new fall wardrobe, but a gold metallic moto jacket, buttery leather shift and twisted, kimono-style jacket affirmed looking cool is equally important.
Another label that favoured a classic black colour scheme was Travis Taddeo. This young designer does pieces that are downtown chic with a bit of menace mixed in. Teaming with NAFA (North American Fur Auctions), Taddeo added interest to a series of well-cut leather, jersey and silk pieces with exaggerated fur coats and accent pieces. The effect was one of the most interesting of the week, and a definite sign of Taddeo’s rising star.
After “restructuring” his label (which was founded in 2010), Thomas Bálint returned to the runway with a moody, youthful presentation. The focus was on timeless pieces done in thoughtful textiles, with Bálint reworking pieces from the past in innovative ways. Sportswear elements (a slouchy long vest with pockets) held their own against more traditional shirting, suiting and outerwear.
Caitlin Power, another young designer with a strong point of view, showcased a series of separates and dresses dripping with attitude; her penchant for sheer was tempered by the use of a strong geometric print and a few futuristic fabrics.
Soïa & Kyo, Rudsak, Travis Taddeo and Caitlin Power photos by George Pimentel
Thomas Bálint photos by Michael Ho